Excess moisture in your home can lead to mold growth, musty odors, peeling paint, and even long-term damage to building materials. A dehumidifier removes water from the air and helps keep indoor humidity in a healthier and more comfortable range. To work well, the unit needs to be sized reasonably close to the needs of the space.
If a dehumidifier is too small, it may run constantly without ever bringing humidity down to your target level. If it is much larger than you need, it can cost more upfront and may use more energy than necessary. This calculator gives you an estimated pint capacity based on your room size and current humidity, so you have a clearer starting point when choosing a model.
The result tells you approximately how many pints of water per day the dehumidifier should be able to remove under standard test conditions. In most cases, you will round up to the next common size available on the market.
The calculator uses room length and width to estimate floor area in square feet. This works well for typical rooms with standard ceiling heights.
Relative humidity (RH) is the amount of water vapor in the air compared to the maximum the air can hold at that temperature, expressed as a percentage. Many indoor comfort and building guidelines suggest maintaining indoor humidity roughly in the 30%–50% range. Above about 60%, mold, mildew, and dust mites are more likely to thrive.
Use a simple digital hygrometer if you can. Place it at about breathing height, away from windows and direct sunlight, to avoid skewed readings. If you do not own one, you can:
Those clues can help you estimate humidity, but keep in mind that the calculation is most reliable with a real measurement.
The calculator follows a simple set of steps to estimate the required dehumidifier capacity in pints per day. It assumes you want to reduce humidity to around 50% RH, which is a common comfort and health target recommended by many building and health organizations.
The floor area is calculated as:
Area (sq ft) = Length (ft) × Width (ft)
Once the area is known, the calculator uses a simplified formula to estimate the pint rating:
Pints = (Area × 0.02) + (Humidity − 50) × 0.5
In MathML form, the core relationship can be written as:
Where:
The first term (Area × 0.02) scales capacity with room size. The second term (Humidity − 50) × 0.5 increases capacity when the starting humidity is well above 50%.
This does not exactly match the sizing charts from every manufacturer, but it gives you a practical starting point that most users can apply across a wide range of situations.
To see how this plays out in practice, consider a medium basement.
Pints = (300 × 0.02) + (70 − 50) × 0.5
Manufacturers typically offer dehumidifiers in standard sizes (for example, 20-pint, 30-pint, 35-pint, 50-pint, and so on). In this scenario, you would usually round up to at least a 20-pint unit, and consider going higher if the basement is chronically damp, poorly insulated, or connected to other spaces.
Once you see the recommended pint rating, use it as a guide rather than an exact engineering specification. Here are some ways to use the number you get:
Remember that the pint rating refers to the amount of moisture the unit can remove from the air in a 24-hour period under standard laboratory conditions. Real-world performance will vary depending on temperature, airflow, how often doors are opened, and how wet the space is to begin with.
The table below gives rough capacity ranges for typical spaces under moderately damp conditions. Use it as a quick comparison to sanity-check the calculator output.
| Space type | Approx. area (sq ft) | Typical starting humidity | Approx. capacity range (pints/day) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small bedroom | 100–200 | 55%–65% | 10–20 | Often enough to control mild dampness or seasonal humidity. |
| Medium living room | 200–400 | 55%–70% | 15–30 | Choose the higher end if the room connects to hallways or other open areas. |
| Large basement | 400–800 | 60%–75% | 25–50 | Below-grade spaces, laundry, or storage areas often benefit from rounding up. |
| Whole small apartment | 500–900 | 50%–65% | 25–45 | Interior doors and layout significantly affect how well one unit can cover the space. |
| Very damp or leaky area | Varies | >75% | Step up 1–2 sizes | Chronic leaks or water intrusion usually require both a larger unit and fixing the source of moisture. |
Your calculator result should usually fall somewhere inside these general bands for similar room types. If it is far outside, double-check your measurements and humidity reading.
This calculator is designed to provide a practical estimate, not a site-specific engineering design. It relies on several assumptions:
Because of these limitations, it is often sensible to choose the nearest higher standard size, especially for basements, laundry rooms, and other chronically damp areas. Treat the output as a guide to narrow your options rather than an exact requirement.
A properly sized dehumidifier is only one part of managing moisture indoors. You will get the best results when it is combined with basic building and lifestyle practices:
Following these steps can reduce how hard your dehumidifier has to work and help maintain a stable humidity level over time.
You can still use the calculator by entering your best estimate, but the result will be approximate. If the room feels only slightly humid, you might try 55%–60%. If it is clearly damp or musty, 65%–75% is more realistic. For accurate sizing, a simple digital hygrometer is inexpensive and useful.
In most cases, a slight oversize is safer than a noticeable undersize. An undersized unit may never catch up, especially in a basement or very humid climate. A modestly larger unit can cycle on and off and usually reaches the target more reliably, though it may cost more upfront.
Possibly, if the rooms are open to each other and air can move freely. Closed doors, long hallways, and multiple floors make it harder for one unit to control humidity everywhere. In those cases, you may need additional units or to place the dehumidifier in the dampest area and accept that other rooms will be less directly controlled.
Yes. Higher ceilings mean more air volume in the same floor area. The calculator assumes a typical ceiling height. If your space has very tall ceilings, you may want to choose a larger capacity than the raw estimate suggests.
Place the unit where air can circulate freely around it: several inches away from walls and furniture, and ideally central to the area you are drying. Keep doors and windows closed while it is running so you are not constantly bringing in humid outdoor air.