Food Dehydrator vs Store-Dried Snacks Cost Calculator
Why this calculator exists
Store-bought dried fruit, veggie chips, and jerky are convenient and shelf-stable—but they’re often priced at a premium. If you snack regularly (or prep for hiking, camping, lunch boxes, or emergency food storage), buying a dehydrator can reduce your cost per “batch” while letting you control ingredients (no added sugar, less sodium, fewer preservatives, allergy-friendly recipes, etc.).
This calculator estimates the break-even point: how many home batches you need to make before the savings versus store-bought pay back the dehydrator’s purchase price. It also converts that break-even batch count into months to break even using your planned batches per month.
Define an “equivalent batch” (most important input)
To compare fairly, your store price per equivalent batch should represent the same amount of finished snack you get from one dehydrator run.
- Best approach: define a batch by final dried weight (e.g., “one batch yields ~12 oz dried mango”). Then price the store product to match that same dried weight.
- Alternative: define a batch by servings (e.g., “one batch makes ~10 servings”). Then use the store price for the same number of servings.
Dehydration removes water, so fresh weight is not comparable to dried weight. Two batches that start with the same fresh weight can also yield different dried amounts depending on slice thickness, water content, and target dryness.
Inputs the calculator uses
- Dehydrator purchase price (C): what you pay for the dehydrator (optionally include tax/shipping if you want a “true” payback).
- Ingredients cost per batch (I): produce/meat/spices/marinade used for one batch.
- Power draw (P): dehydrator wattage (check the label, manual, or product listing).
- Hours per batch (T): typical drying time for your recipes.
- Electricity price (E): your utility rate in $/kWh (from your bill).
- Store price for equivalent batch (S): what it would cost to buy the same amount of finished snack at the store.
- Batches made per month (F): how often you expect to run the dehydrator.
Formulas (how the math works)
Electricity cost per batch is based on converting watts to kilowatts and multiplying by hours and price per kWh:
Total home cost per batch is ingredients plus electricity:
H = I + (P/1000) × T × E
Your savings per batch versus store-bought is:
Savings = S − H
Break-even batches is dehydrator cost divided by savings per batch:
B = C / (S − H)
Months to break even uses your batch frequency:
Months = B / F
Interpreting your results
- If savings per batch is positive (S > H): you save money each batch. Break-even batches will be a finite number.
- If savings per batch is zero or negative (S ≤ H): you’re not saving money per batch based on the inputs, so the dehydrator will not “pay for itself” on cost alone. This can happen if store prices are low, ingredients are expensive, you run very long cycles, or your electricity rate is high.
- Months to break even is highly sensitive to how often you dehydrate. Even a great per-batch savings won’t pay back quickly if you only run a few batches per year.
Worked example
Suppose you buy a dehydrator for $150. It draws 600 W and runs 8 hours per batch. Your electricity price is $0.15/kWh. Ingredients cost $10 per batch. The store price for the same amount of dried fruit is $25.
- Electricity per batch: (600/1000) × 8 × 0.15 = $0.72
- Home batch cost: 10 + 0.72 = $10.72
- Savings per batch: 25 − 10.72 = $14.28
- Break-even batches: 150 / 14.28 ≈ 10.5 batches
If you make 2 batches per month, months to break even ≈ 10.5 / 2 = 5.25 months.
Scenario comparison table
The table below illustrates how store pricing and ingredient costs can change the break-even point. Assumptions: dehydrator cost $150, 600 W, 8 hours/batch, electricity $0.15/kWh (electricity ≈ $0.72 per batch).
| Store price per equivalent batch (S) | Ingredient cost per batch (I) | Home cost per batch (H) | Savings per batch (S − H) | Break-even batches (B) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| $20 | $12 | $12.72 | $7.28 | ~20.6 |
| $25 | $10 | $10.72 | $14.28 | ~10.5 |
| $30 | $8 | $8.72 | $21.28 | ~7.0 |
| $35 | $10 | $10.72 | $24.28 | ~6.2 |
Assumptions and limitations (read before deciding)
- Batch equivalency is on you: the calculator assumes your “equivalent batch” truly matches the store quantity (by dried weight or servings). If not, results can be misleading.
- Prep time is not priced in: slicing, marinating, rotating trays, and cleanup time are excluded. If your time has a cost, treat it separately.
- Maintenance/repairs excluded: tray liners, replacement parts, and eventual failure aren’t included.
- Electricity rate simplification: some utilities have tiered or time-of-use rates; this uses a single average $/kWh.
- Recipe variability: drying time and wattage usage can vary by load size, ambient humidity, target dryness, and dehydrator efficiency.
- Taxes, coupons, and shipping: store prices and dehydrator price may include/exclude these. Include them if you want a real-world comparison.
FAQ
How do I find my dehydrator’s wattage?
Check the sticker/nameplate on the unit, the manual, or the product listing. Enter that value as “power draw (W).”
How do I estimate store price for an equivalent batch?
Match either final dried weight or servings. For example, if one home batch yields 12 oz dried fruit, use the store’s $/oz and multiply by 12 (or sum multiple bags to reach 12 oz).
What if my savings per batch is negative?
That means your inputs imply home dehydration costs more per batch than buying the same amount at the store. You can still dehydrate for quality/control, but there isn’t a cost break-even under those assumptions.
Does this include the value of reduced additives or better nutrition?
No. The calculator is strictly a cost comparison. Many people still choose home dehydration for ingredient control and customization.
Should I include depreciation or resale value?
Optional. If you expect to resell the dehydrator, you can subtract expected resale value from the purchase price before calculating break-even.